The truth about men, women and food . They are to be growled from their wrappers and chewed in mouth- sized chunks by manly men, men with stubble, men with muscles that bulge like bellies. Flakes, however, are for ladies. Sexy ones, in lipstick and baths, who crumble off a feminine bite, before letting their eyes fall closed in pleasure. It's a complicated business, eating.
And one made knottier by the idea that some foods are masculine (hamburgers, steak), while others (yoghurt, quiche) are strictly for girls. Were these ideas of gendered eating originally generated just for ad campaigns, or could the cliches point towards a deeper truth?
Do men and women need different diets? How many of our views on what constitutes ? If men are from meat, are women from cupcake?
Grant Achatz, molecular gastronomist and winner of the James Beard Foundation's award for best chef in the USA in 2. Is it a giant chunk of roasted meat? What makes that manly . But that has more to do with society's control over gender in general than the genetic makeup of people.
In the Observer canteen, a bright- lit tunnel of moaning and chips, I linger by the serving hatches and watch what we eat. Out of 2. 0 diners choosing the steak and mushroom pie over the vegetable quiche, 1. Out of 1. 0 people lingering by the dessert bar .
In 1. 98. 2, Bruce Feirstein published the bestselling . Gravy goes everywhere. When Yorkie relaunched in 2. Nestl. It used to be that people recognised that men needed places to be, in a simple sense, men. Yorkie feels that this is an important element of men's happiness and is starting the reclaiming process of making a particular chocolate just for men. When we're not sensually crumbling a Flake, enjoying some feminine . We crave cocoa like others need glue.
Is this a scientific truth? In the 1. 99. 0s, Yale University professor Linda Bartoshuk devised a bitterness test. She classified the American population into supertasters, medium tasters and non- tasters. Supertasters, she said, live in a . She found a much higher proportion of women to be supertasters, responding more to bitterness than men.
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Does it follow then, if women taste a bitterness that men miss, that women indeed have a ? Anecdotal evidence suggests that women like chocolate more than men . Some researchers say this is because chocolate releases dopamine (a substance which peaks during orgasm) in the female brain. It's even been suggested that when women eat chocolate it affects activity in the amygdala, a part of the brain which regulates sexual desire. Psychologists see it more simply, explaining that chocolate's appeal to women is in its status as a forbidden pleasure to those on diets. The chocolate industry is dominated by brands aimed at women.
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Jill Mc. Call, brand manager at Cadbury, is careful to point out the difference between the indulgent, feminine bars (Flake, Galaxy) and the masculine . Last month Mars launched the Twix Fino, with a third fewer calories than the old- fashioned Twix. Bep Sandhu, from Mars, told trade magazine The Grocer: . Director of the Yale- Griffin Prevention Research centre David Katz believes our gendered diet can be explained by evolution. As cavemen, he suggests, men were hunters, relying on protein to build muscles, and seeing meat as a reward, while women were gatherers of fruit and vegetables. Boys are encouraged to have big appetites from a very young age. It appears possible that there are fat receptors in the brain, so everybody craves it, and because of our greater hormone cascade, women actually crave it more.
People are becoming more receptive to things that take longer. People are looking for an identity with their food. People are buying breadmakers! As everybody's lives are getting more stressful we feel worse, and we need more nutrients. So both men and women are getting scared into eating well.
Alongside their appearance on Sex and the City, where they were fetishised to within an inch of their soon- stale little lives, cupcakes last year became fashionable in Britain too, with one fan (who, dressed as her alter ego Cherry Bakewell, hosts cupcake parties) describing them as a . Here is the baked and ironic response, cupcake lovers say, to post- feminist culture. Similarly, Esquire magazine's Eat Like a Man blog celebrates . Personally, I find most gay guys no more comfortable in a kitchen than their straight mates but I'd like to think, on average, our diets are a bit more adventurous and varied, opting for the Waitrose tuna Ni. We are more 'experimental' by nature, curious to see what they're eating on the other side of the fence .
But rather than cupcakes, he's baking a steak and ale pie, and he's baking it messily, kneading the pastry with meaty hands. It's a story we tell to help us understand the world, and it's powerfully appealing in our post- Darwinian, secular culture. We need ways to explain the world and who we are, and nature, via science, gives us that. Partly due to the availability of foods, and partly due to the . But whatever the historical period, the diets men and women choose tell us a story about gender at the time. For example, the idea that men need more calories than women, or can drink more alcohol, .
Partly to do with the gendered division of labour, partly to do with the construction of the gendered body. He reels off current ideas about what men and women eat, but says he's suspicious of the ways used to explain them. Man is the hunter, therefore the breadwinner, the meat eater, the firemaker, the king of barbecues. Woman is the gatherer of vegetables, the salad eater, the nurturer, the homemaker, the cupcake- maker. Gender, like nature itself, isn't 'natural', it's something we 'do'. And we do it all the time, which means we do it when we eat. We learn our tastes, and part of that learning is gendered.
We're living in a culturally rich time, and are more than able to divide food into categories, including one for 'food that people like me eat'. Women aren't hard- wired to crave dessert .